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Will the DC 9th Street’s Ethiopian Pioneers Survive?

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EDITOR’S NOTE: This is just one example that if Ethiopians are left alone, we can do miracles. Unfortunately, and ironically, we are unable to develop our own country because of the repressive conditions created by U.S.-backed fascist regime.

By Amanda Abrams, DC North

Is it possible to be a victim of your own success—not just once, but twice in a row? The answer could be yes for Washington’s Ethiopian community. In their search for a neighborhood that feels like home, the area’s Ethiopians have been pioneers of economic growth in two formerly down-and-out neighborhoods—first Adams Morgan’s 18th Street, and then the block of 9th Street just south of U Street. But the phenomenon of rising property values that finally pushed the community out of Adams Morgan could repeat itself on 9th Street, if that neighborhood’s growth continues.

Back in the late 1970s and early ‘80s, Washington’s Ethiopians opened businesses on 18th street, at a time when Adams Morgan was a dangerous, no-go zone and rents were cheap. “You couldn’t go there in the daytime, let alone the nighttime,” said Hagos Seyoum, who opened the first Ethiopian restaurant in the United States in 1979. “There was only one other restaurant on 18th Street at the time. My investors didn’t want to put any money into it, so I did it myself.”

Nine years later, he left Adams Morgan, but by that time business on the street was booming. The neighborhood was home to a number of Ethiopian restaurants, as well as many bars and other entertainment spots, and it continued to swell. Within a few more years, however, rents became prohibitively expensive, and the community sought out a new neighborhood—to buy buildings this time, rather than rent.

In search of cheap prices and easy parking, they wound up on the 1900 block of 9th Street, just south of U. The block had once been part of the African American arts and entertainment district that comprised the greater U Street corridor. During the first half of the 20th century, Addison Scurlock, Washington’s best-known photographer of black society, had his studio in a brick building at the corner of 9th and U streets. The Washington Conservatory of Music, containing the largest collection of compositions by black composers, was a block away in a massive turreted home on the corner of 9th and T streets.

But gradually the area had fallen into disrepair. In 1978, Mr. Seyoum bought two houses near the corner of 9th and T streets for $13,000 each. One of the only Ethiopians in the neighborhood for many years, he remained there through some of its worst times.

“Ninth Street, you couldn’t walk on it, it was so dangerous—there was shooting at night,” he said. Standing in front of one of his properties, he pointed out all of the houses nearby—a majority—that were vacant when he first came. “They were very, very shabby. They were all boarded up.”

For years, there was no appreciation of property in the area. It was only in the 1990’s, as Ethiopians began to arrive in the neighborhood, that things gradually changed.

Axum Restaurant was the first Ethiopian-owned restaurant on 9th Street. Gebre Kahassai, the restaurant’s current owner, was the manager in the early ‘90s. “Back then, it was kind of hard to do business here,” he said, sitting in Axum during a break one afternoon. “There used to be trash, illegal things going on in the street, and it was dark, hard to walk. But the city paid attention.”

Little by little, the neighborhood transformed. More Ethiopian businessmen—and women—set up shop on the block, as Ethiopian cabdrivers and other service workers gravitated towards the new hub. Gradually, some savvy Ethiopian entrepreneurs shifted their business models to appeal to a wider audience; meanwhile, a few non-Ethiopian businesses moved in, seeking cheaper rents and proximity to U Street.

Today, the neighborhood is thriving. “This area is born again, like a baby, a good baby,” said Mr. Seyoum with a broad smile.

Alex Padro, executive director of Shaw Main Streets, a nonprofit organization that encourages economic development in the area, agreed. “There were plenty of boarded up buildings here. It’s through the Ethiopians’ hard work that the neighborhood is productive,” he said.

Wandering down one side of 9th and up the other, it’s easy to feel that the block is on the cusp of something exciting. On a given weekend evening, passersby might be Ethiopian, African-American, or white, visiting any number of establishments.

Maybe they’re heading into Haregewine Messert’s bakery, Chez Hareg, located halfway down the block, for cookies and cappuccino. The café’s door sports Obama posters, and Ms. Hareg, who opened the bakery last year, glows with optimism and inclusiveness. One of the business owners on the block who tries to market to a wider audience, she says, “I’m trying to offer something different. I have seven kinds of vegetarian cookies, with no animal products. I want anybody to come and feel like they belong here.”

Other passersby might be coming from the Velvet Lounge, a bar and alternative music venue on U Street just west of 9th that’s under new ownership. Owners Abdul Kayoumy, a Californian of Afghan descent, and Haile Berhane, an Ethiopian, are excited about the changes they’re making. “It’s gonna be really great,” said Mr. Berhane, showing off the club’s new bathrooms and newly expanded space for socializing. The two recently bought a building next door that they plan to make into a separate nightspot.

Despite some gripes about increased parking hassles, business owners’ optimism about the neighborhood is palpable. Weekend foot traffic is growing, and new restaurants and services are opening every month. But the pace of change may increase spectacularly in the near future.

Big Changes on the Horizon

Geographically, 9th Street is somewhat isolated from the rest of U Street. As a result, the development that transformed U Street in the past few years—the condos, cafes and upscale chain restaurants—largely passed it by. Finally, however, a number of major, large developments are slated to be built in the vicinity. Within five years, the landscape around the Ethiopian neighborhood could be massively transformed.

Phil Spalding, the Advisory Neighborhood Commissioner for an area that includes the west side of 9th Street, listed some of the projects currently on the drawing board. “Metro owns a section of Florida Avenue east of 9th Street [to 7th Street] and is planning to develop it; that could take out a couple of buildings on 9th, as well as the area now used as the flea market [at 9th and Florida]. In the next month or two, it’ll be clear who won the contract, so that development is a couple years down the line.”

He continued, “Then there’s the Broadway Atlantic project, being done by a huge developer from Manhattan. It’s big—900 units—and all approvals are in place.” That will be a couple of blocks north of the Ethiopian neighborhood, and should be built in the next two years.

Those are the ones with the biggest impact. But there are also plans for another building in that area with 350 units and retail at ground level. Meanwhile, Howard University is planning the Howard Town Center, a mixed-use development on Georgia between V and W streets, two blocks east, and another mixed-use development that will house the headquarters of DC’s Radio One is scheduled to be built to the south, at 7th and S streets. And scattered around the neighborhood are many smaller projects: a building renovation here, a school reuse there.

There’s even a small development planned for the very heart of the 1900 block of 9th Street. A parking lot next to Axum Restaurant has been sold to a local developer, who will be putting in a four- or five-story live/work space for artists. Although it may mean trouble for the restaurants that currently use the parking lot for street access, Mr. Spalding is excited about the project and describes it as “just right for that area.”

About the rest, though—the condos, the retail, the changes—he worries about the pressure it will put on Ethiopian business owners. “With all that development, I’m not sure this area can sustain these businesses,” he mused, pointing out that owning the buildings—rather than renting, like in Adams Morgan—is no insurance against change. “The value of these buildings will go up and up, and the current owners will start getting offers. When they understand that the value is going from $300,000 to $1.3 million, they will have an incentive to move on,” he said.

At the very least, he said, the nature of the businesses will have to change. Places like Axum that serve as an “internal social club,” as Mr. Spalding put it, with a largely Ethiopian clientele who come to speak their native language and feel at home with friends, will face pressure to widen their customer base or leave.

Mr. Spalding’s observations are difficult to argue with. Ninth Street may once have been a remote hinterland, but it’s becoming increasingly central in a DC that keeps reinventing itself.

The Ethiopians who work and hang out on the block are also watching developments closely. In Axum one Saturday night, reactions to the neighborhood’s current and planned growth are mixed, but few people speak negatively—on the record, at least—about its prospects.

“The future? It’s going to be more crowded, bring more business,” said Axum’s owner, Mr. Kahassai. “A lot of things might change, but I’m not going to worry.”

Haile Gebro, a former contractor who was nursing a bottle of beer, said, “So far, the changes are for good. But it’s very hard to talk about the future because it’s changing so fast.”

His friend, Negasi Teklu, a former correctional officer who has lived the area for 25 years, was more specific. “The neighborhood has definitely changed. It’s like 18th Street—I saw how it changed. The Ethiopians come here, open businesses and open eyes. Now the changes might drive us out of here.”

But his response sounded a rare negative note. At this shining time when the neighborhood is flourishing and seems to hold enormous promise, most Ethiopians are overwhelmingly optimistic about the future.

“I think it’s going to be good,” said Danny Kebede, the manager of Chez Hareg’s bakery. “To see this area cleaner and safer means more business to the strip—I don’t see the negative at all. Starbucks is absolutely welcome to this block. More business is better.”

7 thoughts on “Will the DC 9th Street’s Ethiopian Pioneers Survive?

  1. Dear Editor,

    Wow a very impressive article, Thank you for posting such true Ethiopian testament. The premises of the article is tantamount to the making of the state of our great nation Ethiopia. Indeed the ingenuity and caliber of Etiopians at work; turning a run-down American ghetto town into a promising, full of life and prosporous community. The thing that struck me the most was that the fact that, the Ethiopian buisness community is welcoming the change, the change that was possible because of their hard work and deligience. If it was not for them, these shining towns might as well have been the same shaby, dangerous ghettos and a far fetched dream for these so-called developers to even consider rehabilitating these towns. Indeed, I agree with your editorial note, all we Ethiopians are asking is leave us alone, just leave us alone we can turn Ethiopia into the greatest nation in Africa possibly in the world. Dictator Mengistu’s regime chocked the genious blood out of us and the regime of dictator Meles is doing the same thing all over again. Don’t we deserve just to be left alone? Ethiopians would not have needed aid if they were not been made a proxy for world powers; We could feed Africa easily. Just leave us alone!

    May God free us from foreign and internal bondage

  2. Dear Editor,

    This is indeed an incredible prove that if left alone, Ethiopians are capable of amazing success. One of the greatest American philosophers, Henry David Thoreau said “That government is best which governs least”. I think the DC Ethiopians prove Thoreau’s assertion very well. Left alone in a foreign country, living in a city with minimal intrusion and intervention, the Ethiopians essentially transformed untouchable neighborhoods into real estate gems, one at a time. I wonder where we would have been if not marginalized, intimidated, arrested, tortured, banished, and killed in our own country by successive governments. What a waste!

  3. Not so fast my friends!

    No doubt that Ethiopians in a foreign land, all over the world, are succeeding individually and to some degree collectively. Yes, the individual left alone to his own will and determination will thrive or fail depending on the person. However, building a nation from the bottom up is not quite the same. Keep in mind that the “dectators” of the past and the present are our own…they are “us”. So, my question for all of my ethiopian friends who are quick to bask in your national pride is that, Do you think building a nation of over eighty million people with its most complex ethnic diversity and economic inequalities is as simple as turning a block of street in DC into an economic wonder? As I said, I appreciate the successful endeavor of every single Ethiopian in America. I might mention in a country in which the principles and rules of the game have been edged in stone a couple of centuries ago. The problem in turning Ethiopia into ” an economic powerhouse” in Africa is rooted in our traditional incapacity to agree to disagree on matters of principles of personal as well as societal. In addition, though we won’t admit it publicly, we seem to suffer greatly from a culture of willingness to sabotage any potential or real “outside the box” thinking and or the ideals of creativity that might potentially benefit the individual as well as the collective. It feels good to point fingers because, to some degree, it absolves us of individual responsibility but we must all be accountable to our own internal voice that is negative and work hard to change it.

    So, let us not over simplify. Doing so will only hinder us from achieving real and progressive growth that comes from introspection; moreover, it gives us a falls sense of confidence and pride that is damaging to our social psych. For Ethiopia to grow, we must always insist on evaluating the condition of our reality with sincerity and appropriate relevance.

  4. Correction to the Editor,
    The First Ethiopian Restorant was Opened in 1976 on 4600 block of Georgia ave called Mama Desta Ethiopian Restaurant, later in the 80’s she moved to Chicago to Open an other Mama Desta Ethiopian Restaurant. It is not Mr Hagos who open the First ETH Restaurant.
    Thanks,
    DC-5

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