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Ethiopia

Finding the right wine for Ethiopian dishes

By Bill Daley | Chicago Tribune

Ethiopians have for centuries made a honey wine known as tej. You can sometimes find this meadlike beverage for sale at some Ethiopian restaurants. Or, you could try a mead made domestically.

For most diners looking for that Ethiopian meal out at a restaurant or for takeout, the drink of choice most likely will be beer or a grape-based wine.

The question is: What sort of wine to pour with Ethiopia’s highly seasoned meat and vegetable dishes, most of which are served on rounds of injera, the tart Ethiopian flat bread made from teff flour.

Tom Benezra of Sal’s Beverage World stores, located in the Chicago suburbs, wants a wine with an “earthy minerality” alongside the fruitiness to enliven the food. That’s why he goes with Old World or Old World-influenced white wines. He particularly likes a South African chenin blanc or a French Vouvray to counter the berbere spice paste, a widely used combination of red pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, clove, onion, garlic and other seasonings, that provides zip in many Ethiopian dishes.

“For red wine drinkers, the fruity-spicy combination found in California zinfandel and Australian shiraz will work especially well with beef dishes,” he said. “Expect some fireworks in your mouth if the dish is hot.”

Natalie MacLean, a Canadian wine writer who runs an online food and wine matcher at her Web site, nataliemaclean.com, likes cabernet sauvignon with lamb-based Ethiopian dishes.

“But stick with New World cabs that are more fruit-forward and can also handle the spices in the dish,” she added. With doro wot, the Ethiopian chicken and egg stew, MacLean recommends an oaked chardonnay for a white or a syrah for a red.

“These deep, voluptuous wines will marry nicely with the richness of the dish,” she said.

The tasting

We tried three reds, two white and a honey wine to find a good match for doro wot, the popular Ethiopian chicken and egg stew. Why a honey wine? It’s a traditional beverage in Ethiopia. The big winner? A South African chenin blanc. It scored first on its own and when paired with the doro wot. As with all food-wine ratings, the final score reflects how well the wine and the food worked together.

2007 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc

This South African white had a brilliant light yellow color, a jazzy herbal nose and a mouthwatering crispness. The richness of the doro wot cut the wine’s tartness while the wine made the stew taste spicier. $15

2006 Yangarra Grenache McLaren Vale Old Vine

This big Australian red had a nose of eucalyptus and smoke. The flavor offered lots of black cherry fruit and a touch of mint. The wine and the doro wot balanced each other well; the wine’s flavor lingered on the palate. $24

NV Wild Blossom Meadow Mead

Tasters loved this Chicago honey wine’s intense clove scent. A refreshing acidity kept sweetness in check. But panelists weren’t so sure how the mead worked with doro wot. Some thought the wine’s spices gave the stew a delicious zap, yet others thought the mead didn’t work with all of the stew’s ingredients, especially the hard-cooked egg. $13.

2006 Georges Duboeuf Fleurie

A red from one of so-called cru villages of France’s Beaujolais region. The nose was a tad musty, and the flavor was lean on fruit, but the doro wat’s seasoned sauce reinvigorated the wine to a degree. $15

2004 Kim Crawford Chardonnay, Tietjen & Briant Vineyards

This white from New Zealand’s Gisborne wine region was classic chard: color, aroma and flavor. Expect notes of vanilla, oak, toast. The texture of the buttery wine made the doro wot seem plusher. $17

2005 Ajello Majus Nero d’Avola

Solo was a terrific Sicilian red, with an extraordinary nose of tea, tobacco and cedar and a lush fruit flavor kept in check by just the right degree of tannin. But the wine lost its luster with the doro wot. The two vied too much for attention, reducing each other. $11

Sources: These wines may or may not be in stock at your local store; inquire first. At least one of these wines was found at these stores: Binny’s Beverage Depot , Sal’s Beverage World, Sam’s Wines & Spirits, Sav-Way Fine Wine & Spirits, Uncork It, DiCarlo Fine Wine & Spirits in Mundelein. Prices are rounded off.

(The writer can be reached at [email protected])

Ethiopia’s Omo River dam to cause environmental disaster

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By Ikal Angelei | International Rivers

Lake Turkana is a miraculous anomaly of life-giving water in a parched and unforgiving land. Formed millions of years ago in the tectonic upheavals that created East Africa’s Great Rift Valley, Turkana is the largest permanent desert lake in the world. Extinct volcanoes enclose the horizon, and the heat is so intense that when the blustery wind from Mount Kulal on the eastern shore temporarily ceases and clouds gather overhead, raindrops sometimes evaporate before they even reach the lake. It is called “ghost rain.”

Areas affected by Gibe III

This other-worldly scene is bolstered by the world’s largest population of Nile crocodiles which survive on another Nilotic ancestor, the giant perch, which in turn feeds on a profusion of blue-green algae. This prehistoric lake has also long been a focus for humans: its shores have revealed the oldest-known fossil remains of Homo habilis. Today, more than a quarter million residents from at least ten tribes have become masters of wresting sustenance from the harsh landscape. Without the lake, life here would be virtually impossible.

But Lake Turkana and its inhabitants now face an environmental catastrophe – and an avoidable one. The lake could start drying up when its main source, the Omo River, is depleted by a huge dam across the border in Ethiopia. The Ethiopian Government is planning a series of upstream dams on the Omo River; the most imminent is the Gibe III hydroelectric dam, already two years into construction.

There is no question that Ethiopia needs power. But the irony of the Gibe III dam is that while it threatens the economy of the Turkana region, a large share of its electricity will be sold to consumers in other parts of Kenya. For Ethiopia, the project is a commercial one: they want to make money selling the power elsewhere, not provide power to their own people. For Kenya, it’s a matter of allowing one part of the country to be devastated so that others may get a little more power.

The assault on the Omo River and Lake Turkana by the Gibe dam is projected to result in a drop of seven to ten meters in the lake’s depth in the first five years alone (the lake has already receded by about five to eight meters because of climate change). Resulting changes in the chemical balance of the water threatens the region’s tremendous biodiversity, including large populations of Nile crocodiles, hippopotamus, and over 40 different species of fish and snakes. The riparian forest, one of the last pristine dryland forests in Africa, would also be in grave danger.

The saga of Gibe III Dam is just the latest episode of human pressures contributing to the dying of Africa’s biggest lakes. Lake Chad has nearly disappeared from diversions that stopped its flow, and Lake Victoria has seen major drops in its water levels from dams that let too much water out. Climate change could add several more to the list of dead or dying lakes and depleted rivers across the continent. Losing our precious water resources will make us less able to adapt to climate change.

Endangered People

Turkana’s indigenous communities are highly dependent on the lake for their food crops, livestock grazing and watering, and fishing. Any impacts to the lake’s ecosystem would disrupt the economy, leading to an increase in conflicts in the area. Considering the unstable state of peace in Northern Kenya, such damage to the local economies would invoke a threat to regional stability.

While a power purchase agreement outlining the terms of electricity sales was reportedly signed between Ethiopia and Kenya in 2006, no bilateral agreements on the use of the Omo-Turkana waterway and the dam’s downstream effects to Kenya are publicly known. The 300,000 people who live around Lake Turkana in Kenya were neither informed of the project’s impacts nor consulted on their priorities. Their situation mirrors that in Ethiopia, where the traditional economy of the Lower Omo Valley supports up to half a million people. The Ethiopian dam-affected people – who, like those on the Kenyan side, are largely indigenous peoples leading traditional lifestyles – have heard little or nothing about the project and their options, even though the changes to the Omo will upset the fragile balance of river bank cultivation and herding they maintain, unraveling the valley’s best strategy against food insecurity. Resulting scarcity could quickly lead to violent conflict in one of the most culturally diverse areas of Africa.

Even if Ethiopia’s affected communities organize to object to the plans, the government is notoriously unsympathetic to citizen concerns. In Ethiopia, civil society activists who might normally help raise awareness about such projects or advocate for affected people have been hesitant to join the fray, given their government’s restrictive policies and repressive tendencies regarding NGOs.

The financial backers of the Gibe III Dam may include the African Development Bank, the European Investment Bank, the Italian Government and JP Morgan Chase. While the World Bank has refused to consider project funding, they may still consider financial support through loan guarantees. Agence Francaise de Dévelopement, Germany’s aid agency KFW, and the Development Bank of Southern Africa may support the costly transmission line from the Gibe III Dam to Kenya’s national grid.

While such funders require an Environmental Impact Assessment, the one that has been submitted is incredibly sloppy and hopelessly incomplete. Shockingly it does not even mention that the Omo River supplies almost 80 percent of the Lake Turkana waters. It suggests that the dam will regulate the natural flooding cycle of the Omo River, eliminating the seasonal floods critical to downstream farmers. The truncated, artificial flood suggested in the EIA is ill-designed to achieve its purpose. The minimum, environmental flow is based on the single, lowest monthly flow recorded in the driest month, since 1964. There is no mention of how long it may take to fill Gibe III’s massive reservoir, during which time dam operators may only release 25m3/ sec, creating a prolonged dry season up to several years long. Ironically, while the filling of the reservoir alone could drive Lake Turkana to the brink of ecological collapse, the EIA argues that the dam will help restore Lake Turkana, not deplete it. So far, the project has continued despite the huge deficiencies in this official study, but those concerned about the impacts on Lake Turkana intend to bring their case to these agencies.

The project’s lack of transparency in other areas borders on the corrupt. The US$1.7 billion project is the single largest infrastructural work being undertaken in Ethiopia, yet its lucrative contract was handed to Italian construction giant, Salini, based on a questionable exception to Ethiopia’s own procurement rules. The uncompetitive awarding of the contract also contradicts World Bank and African Development Bank procurement guidelines, The World Bank has declared the project ineligible for project lending, unlike the African Development Bank which plans to consider the project despite the contract violation.

But this case is not just the responsibility of outside agencies and the Ethiopian dam planners. The Kenyan government must first and foremost do more to protect the interests of the peoples of northwest Kenya, and the ecosystems upon which they depend. The power purchase agreement with the Ethiopian government needs to be made public. We need to know if the impact on Lake Turkana was even considered before the power purchase agreement was signed. The ministries of Energy, Water, and Northern Kenya must account for their plans to preserve the environment and livelihoods of the region. The members of parliament representing Northern Kenya need to know what is planned, and have a chance to voice their communities’ concerns. The peoples of Lake Turkana must be heard.

(The author is with Friends of Lake Turkana. [email protected])

Ethiopia's World Cross Country prospects suffer major jolt

By Mutwiri Mutuota and IAAF

Ethiopia is gearing for Amman, Jordan, with grim realisation that the trio, which constitutes its most potent distance running assault weapons, will not line up for battle.

On Tuesday, reports from Addis Ababa confirmed that three-time senior women champion, Tirunesh Dibaba and husband Sileshi Sihine, were out of the March 28 World Cross due to injury and training fatigue.

Ethiopians are also sweating on the prospects of their team going to their first World Cross in nine years without six-time senior men champion, Kenenisa Bekele.

“It is now pretty certain that a slow recovery from a leg injury will rule out reigning men’s champion,” the IAAF website reported on Tuesday.

Quite to the contrary, the news was not received by three cheers or champagne and caviar celebration at the Kenyan camp training in Embu.

“It’s sad for the event that the three will not be there. Our runners motivate themselves to face them because they bring out the best,” head coach, Julius Kirwa, told FeverPitch yesterday.

“Even without the three, Ethiopia will still field strong athletes and we are training hard to better them as well as all other countries that will be there,” the coach noted.

“We are not going to allow our runners to relent in their mission following the news. In fact, their absence, if true, will make the competition more open and will lift other nations and we have to be ready,” Kirwa disclosed.

The Ethiopian Athletics Federation (EAF) named its provisional squad of 24 for the Amman World Cross last Saturday where Bekele, Tirunesh and Sihine were missing.

Urgent food supplies intended for Ethiopia stuck in Djibouti

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EDITOR’S NOTE: What better is expected from the dumbest government in the world? Even monkeys know how to get food out of a warehouse.

ADDIS ABABA, Ethiopia (IRIN) – Beneficiaries of food aid in Ethiopia could face tougher times unless supplies that are stuck in Djibouti port arrive quickly in the country, sources said.

Officials blamed congestion at Djibouti port, land-locked Ethiopia’s main access to the sea, but insisted the situation was improving.

“It was a problem during October and December,” Mitku Kassa, Ethiopia’s Minister for Agriculture and Rural Development, said. “Through negotiation and discussions with the officials, especially Dubai Port World, which manages the port, and STDV, the port agency, the [situation] is improving.”

A recent joint assessment by the Ethiopian government and its humanitarian partners found that 4.9 million people would require humanitarian assistance over the next six months. The government and donors have appealed for US$389.3 million worth of food to alleviate the situation.

“A large quantity of WFP’s [UN World Food Programme] food is at the port,” Paulette Jones, WFP spokeswoman in Addis Ababa, said. “These [food] commodities are needed urgently to assist beneficiaries who are still suffering from the impact of the drought, high food prices and [low] global food stocks.”

Rations

According to the UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (OCHA), January food allocations have been affected by limited resources.

Only the worst-affected areas would receive full cereal and blended food rations, based on the agreement reached by a prioritisation committee. Other beneficiaries would receive full pulse and vegetable oil rations reduced by two-thirds.

WFP said it was exploring the options of using Port Sudan and Berebera in Somaliland – which would also make it easier to deliver food to the Somali region of Ethiopia.

Meanwhile, the International Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies (IFRC) has warned that livestock owned by southern pastoralist families have reduced drastically over the past two decades after animals died from diseases induced by climate change and severe drought.

In a report prepared by Ethiopian and Dutch researchers, published on 26 February, the IFRC said average livestock numbers owned by households had declined from 10 to three oxen, 35 to seven cows, and 33 to six goats in Borena zone of Oromiya region.

“For families entirely dependent on their animals for income and as a food source, losses on this scale would be disastrous,” it noted.

As animals died, people became dependent on aid while dry seasons triggered local “resource conflicts” over water and pasture, the study found. “About a quarter of all households in Borena and Guji zones suffered from cattle-raiding related to conflict in the period 2004–2008,” IFRC said.

Filming a water project in Ethiopa

By Chuck Fryberger

A month ago, Ryan contacted me and said he was possibly looking for a filmmaker to accompany him to Ethiopia to do a short film about clean water and the improvement it can make to people’s lifestyle who have not had access to clean water.

At the time I wasn’t sure if it would work with my schedule. … I was excited to participate but I didn’t want to compromise any of the follow-through for my film Pure, which was due to premiere just five days before I would depart for Africa with Ryan.

Needless to say, we sorted out the scheduling and I’m excited about the trip ahead and the prospect of effecting some tangible change with my video camera.

Making climbing films and granola bar advertisements is rewarding, don’t get me wrong, but ultimately it’s a very selfish pursuit, and at this point in my life I’m unattached and willing to work on behalf of others.

The project in Ethiopia (and I’ll learn more as I go) is simple: I’ll make a short film about the effect clean water can have on a village of people who do not currently have access to clean water. This film will be used in a variety of ways, mostly to gain support for the wells and other needed infrastructure to bring the clean water to the villages we will visit. If all goes well, the villages will be receiving new wells and related equipment soon. But there’s no guarantee things will go as planned. From my perspective, we have several challenges facing us:

Restrictions.
We may not be able to bring any / all of our camera gear into the country. The Ethiopian government has a reputation for locking up camera equipment and not giving it back until the owners leave the country. The government fears any media that may make them out to be corrupt or irresponsible. Our proposed film really has little to do with the government, but it’s going to be hard to convince the customs agents of that fact if they decide to cause a problem. I’ve broken up my gear across my duffel bags and carry-ons, but it’s still a shit ton of gear, and if they stack it all next to each other in a pile it’s going to be hard to hide the fact that I’m a professional.

The unforeseen.
There are a lot of unknowns about this place and any time I go into a film shoot without a clear idea of what the end product will be I get a little nervous. My preferred style is a combination of planning and run&gun documentary, so this project should be a good fit for me. I have some stylistic ideas I’d like to implement but we’ll have to see how practical they are when we actually set foot in the country and figure out exactly how much creative freedom (read: time) I can have to try and get artsy. Ultimately I would like to maintain a high level of cinematic appeal with this project in addition to conveying the information we need to convey.

I’m looking forward to the chance to see a new landscape, meet some new people, and try to accomplish some good with my camera. Simply being able to shoot without having to worry about sponsorship conflicts and logo placements and industry politics will be a relief. If we accomplish our goal and we are able to bring clean water to the ten villages we will visit, then this will likely be the most meaningful project I’ve ever shot.

(For the complete list of Challenges, as well as impressions from Cloudveil athlete Chuck Fryberger’s journals and first few days in Ethiopia, visit his blog: Straight Outta Lenslam.)